Making French Country Home Decor
So what are we going to be doing here today? I'm going to show you...
HOW TO AGE GALVANIZED METAL
HOW TO MAKE A FAUX STONE FINISH
HOW TO MAKE CEMENT BOWLS
HOW TO PAINT PERFECT SIGNS AND GRAPHICS
HOW TO CREATE A GALVANIZED FINISH
HOW TO MAKE A FAUX PLASTER PAINT FINISH
HOW TO MAKE A FILE FOLDER ORGANIZER
HOW TO MAKE A WINDMILL
It's my hope that these projects provide you with inspiration to create some of your own French Country Home Decor.
HOW TO AGE GALVANIZED METAL
Sponsored by http://www.2littlehooligans.com/2013/09/19/how-to-give-galvanized-metal-an-aged-look/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Feed:+2littlehooligans+(2+little+hooligans
Step 1. Take your sandpaper and scratch the entire surface. Make sure you take your time and get all of the little spots around the edge.
Step 2. Now take your metal piece and either submerge it in vinegar or keep wiping vinegar over it. I just took an old rag and soaked it in vinegar and every half-hour or so wiped more vinegar onto the jug. Towards the end once it was reacting, I took the vinegar soaked rag and layed it right on top of the jug. This definitely sped up the aging process. About 4 hours later my jug was aged.
FAUX STONE FINISH
Sponsored by http://www.flower-child-designs.com/2012/08/rusty-goodness.html
Step 1. Spray paint in brown.
Step 2. Spray paint textured brown paint onto a dish. Then using a sea sponge, dip it into this paint and start dabbing onto the surface.
Step 3. Using white acrylic paint, dab on the surface using your sea sponge.
Continue to go back and forth with the textured paint and the white paint until your happy with how it looks.
MAKING CEMENT BOWLS
Sponsored by http://thepaintedhive.net/2016/09/diy-concrete-vessel-planters/
Don't worry. This is long, but super simple.
STEP 1 Mix cement with water.
Based on the amount of concrete you need, place a scoop or two (or three or four) of cement in your container then gradually add water, stirring as you go. It’s really easy – just like making icing! If you add too much water, simply correct by introducing more cement. You’re after a toothpaste-like consistency.
Too much water and your concrete will be weak and prone to shrinkage and cracks. Too little water and your concrete won’t bind well, resulting in crumbling.
If you’re using aggregates, add them to your dry cement and combine well prior to incorporating any water. As this concrete doesn’t need to be structural, you don’t need to worry too much about exact proportions. Just add a handful or two until you’re happy with the mix.
STEP 2 Lubricate your moulds.
Thoroughly coat the contact surfaces of your moulds with your chosen lubricant. As mentioned above, I used cooking oil spray though you can use anything which will create some slip.
STEP 3 Mix your cement and water with a wooden spoon.
STEP 4 Fill your outer mould with cement mixture.
Fill the mould ensuring you allow enough space for your inner mould to take-up some of the volume.
STEP 5 Press your inner mould into the cement mixture.
Push the inner mould down into the concrete, trying to keep it as level and central as possible. Make sure you don’t push it down too far – you need the base of your planter to be around 5″ thick. If there is too much or too little concrete in your mould, simply add or remove some.
Leave to cure for around 24 hours.
Place your mould in a protected area to cure overnight.
STEP 6 Release from mould.
Remove the inner mould first. Depending on what you’ve used, it may take a bit of persuasion though shouldn’t be too hard to dislodge. If you’re struggling to get a good grip, use some pliers. Next, release the planter from the outer mould.
Sand or file any rough areas if desired.
Note: Attach small felt or rubber pads to there bases. You may even want to coat the interior with a water-proof sealer, like silicone.
Tip: If you intend to use your planter to house plants, use small stones or pebbles at the bottom for drainage.
How gorgeous would these be leaving a few in their natural form and painting others white and sanding over it to give it a distressed look.
HOW TO PAINT PERFECT SIGNS AND GRAPHICS
Sponsored by https://anastasiavintage.com/2015/12/how-to-paint-perfect-signs-graphics.html
Step 1. Once you’ve printed your image or text, tape each of the pieces together in the correct order. Next, flip the image over and color all over the back of the paper with a pencil, pastel crayon, or chalk. You do not have to color every inch of the paper itself, but do double-check that you have covered the back of every part of the image to be transfered.
Step 2. Flip the image back over so the colored side is against the surface of your piece. Trace over the outline of the image/text to be transferred with something fairly sharp - a pencil or pen. The writing instrument you use doesn’t even have to work – the point is to apply enough pressure so the color on the back of the paper is transferred to the surface of your piece as you trace. Once you’re done, you should have a nicely transferred outline.
Step 3. Paint the Image or Lettering - My favorite tool to use for this step is a paint pen, but you can also use a small artist’s brush if you have a steady hand
Aren't these vintage Valentine transfers gorgeous?
Look at ton's more at https://thegraphicsfairy.com/
You can distress over your images and wording to give them an aged appearance.
HOW TO CREATE A GALVANIZED FINISH
Sponsored by https://www.artsychicksrule.com/how-create-diy-galvanized-finish/
Step 2. Once they are dry, get a medium size paint brush.
Dip the ends of the bristles in some white acrylic paint and wipe away most of the paint on a paper plate.
Then just dab, dab, dab, squishing the bristles down onto the letters.
Do that randomly all over, on the sides, etc. You can’t really mess this part up….unless you use too much paint. ;)
If you do, just wipe it away and start again!
Step 3. Once the white paint is dry, now it’s time for black or gray paint.
Using Graphite acrylic paint, dab over the letters randomly.
Then to finish off the look, I took what was left on the brush and wiped at the edges to leave that dark edge look you see above.
The edges would be one of the places that would naturally be worn/aged so it makes it look even more realistic.
So, as you maybe can tell already, using a shiny paint underneath and then adding paints over top that are matte/flat, really give it a true galvanized look.
If you're “galvanizing” something that will be handled and/or used, you will want to seal it with a matte spray sealer.
FAUX PLASTER PAINT FINISH
Sponsored by https://www.thecreativityexchange.com/2012/08/diy-faux-plaster-paint-finish-for-trash-to-treasure-projects.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Feed:+blogspot/pkqz+(The+Creativity+Exchange)
Step 1. Decide what color you want as an under color to show through.
Step 2. If you are painting metal or glass, you will want to prime your item first.
Step 3. For thick and chunky plaster, I mixed together (in a bowl) a 50/50 ratio of latex wall paint and lightweight spackle:
Step 4. For the paint itself, I like to use a very light taupe color for my basic plaster color (I just buy the sample size). You can use anything you like but if you want that cement-y plaster color, I have found a light taupe color mixed with the white of the lightweight spackle gives the perfect plaster color when dried. I also prefer to use a flat paint which gives an even more chalky finish.
Step 5. Once the spackle/paint is thoroughly mixed together, I brush it on with a foam brush. The foam brush gets more of the plaster mix onto the item, rather than a standard brush. The foam brush also allows a little more control.
The trick to brushing it on the plaster mix is not to completely cover and paint the object- but rather sporadically brush it on, leaving spots where your under color will be visible.
Step 6. Allow the plaster mix to completely dry. Overnight is usually just right.
Step 7. Once the plaster mix is dry, you will need a really strong small wire brush, medium grade steel wool and very coarse sand paper. The plaster is very thick and hard and the coarse sand paper will quickly get you down to your under color and the wire brush will chip away in the hard to reach areas. The steel wool is the finishing touch that lightly roughs up the surface and it sort of “ages” the plaster color as the steel wool is rubbed into the plaster and “dirties” it up
Step 8. You will just have to play with the sanding and steel wool to get the combination and the look that you like. Some areas of dried plaster I didn’t touch and other areas I either lightly sanded or rubbed the sand paper into the piece enough that sanded the plaster completely off.
Step 9. 7) After you have finished sanding your piece, you can either leave as is or you can “pat” the plaster with a dark stain.
How gorgeous would it be finding a Mother Mary statue and doing this finish on her.
ANTIQUE METAL DOOR
This is super simple to make. The hardest part is finding a gorgeous antique metal door. Then you'd buy a metal planter like this - drill (3) holes in the back and wire it onto the antique door.
FILE FOLDER ORGANIZER
I love this and silly me - I see these all the time at Goodwill.
Did you ever think that you could have one of these gorgeous pieces of wall decor without spending a bundle? Well I'm here to tell you that you can!
Sponsored by https://www.sadieseasongoods.com/ceiling-fan-blade-windmill/
When I looked up these online, they were OUTRAGEOUSLY priced. And also- HUGE. I have a small budget and a small house…but what if I could recreate that look with repurposed ceiling fan blades??
Step 1. First, I removed the connecting hardware from my blades and wiped them down. We needed to cut them into a more angular windmill blade shape. So, I grabbed some scrap cardboard and a marker (ignore the utility knife- I changed my mind about using it).
Step 2. I traced the full ceiling fan blade, and then sketched out the windmill blade shape inside my tracing.
Step 3. With a rotary cutter in hand, I cut out my template.
Ok - we have a template.
Step 4. Then I taped the template to each ceiling fan blade and traced it out.
Looks pretty wind-millish.
Step 5. After purchasing some large, industrial-looking nuts and bolts, we drilled corresponding holes through each blade and the floral craft ring (which we had cut off- about a quarter round of it). Now, it was time to metal-fy them with some amazing spray paint…
Are you ready for this? The transformation is insane- they turned to weathered, galvanized steel right before my eyes.
Step 6. I wanted to add just a touch of “rust”, but I wasn’t quite sure how to do it. I used one of the blades as a guinea pig before rubbing a scant amount of rust-colored craft paint onto each blade using a cloth rag. When that dried, I gave the blades a quick coat of matte sealant, to protect my faux rust paint job AND to tone down the shine.
Step 7. Then, it was assembly time! I bolted the blades to the quarter round of craft ring, and then I hot-glued a piece of wire behind the three blades I used. It’s a minor detail, but all the real windmills have that stabilizing wire, so I wanted mine to look as authentic as possible.
I'll be back to lavish you with more French Country Home Decor soon.
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