• The projects here are simple. They just require a few materials that you might not have.

    Table of Contents

    How to Age New Furniture

    How to Reupholster a Dining Room Chair

    How to Reupholster an Arm Chair

    How to Create Rust

    Making Mercury Glass

    Making Homemade Chalk Paint

    Painting with Chalk Paint

    Creating a Chippy Finish with Chalk Paint

    How to Paint Upholstery

    Learn How to Antique a Mirror

    Learning How to Paint a Cabinet

    Learning How to Decoupage

    Learn How to Apply Transfers to Furniture

    Glazing Furniture

    Reupholstering a Dining Chair Seat


    How to Age New Furniture

    All new furniture is made of particle board, or has a laminate on the outsides of the piece.

    The MOST IMPORTANT part of working with this type of furniture is to change the finish from being glossy, to a matte textured finish to accept if your painting or staining it.

    Step 1. Using a piece of light-weight sanding paper, sand the entire piece of furniture.

    Step 2. Now go over the entire piece with a piece of steel wool This will smooth the finish, but still allowing some texture to it.

    Step 3. If your painting your piece, you'll want to prime it with a product like Kilz.

    Step 4. If you're staining your piece, you can apply the first coat of stain. You'll want to leave this on and allow to dry. DO NOT wipe it off.

    Step 5. If your painting your piece, you can now paint it and allow it to dry. Once dry, apply a second coat.

    Step 6. If you're staining your piece, you can apply a second coat - wait 15 minutes - then wipe off.

    Step 7. Once either your painted or stained piece is completely dry, you can go over it with a new piece of steel wool.

    Now you can decide what you'd like to do with your new piece of furniture. You can age it with some sand paper, or you can leave it as is. It's up to you!

    Creating different Patina Finishes

    How to Reupholster a Dining Chair

    This is super easy and just think - your going to have what appears to be brand new dining chairs.


    • New fabric
    • New Batting
    • New Dust Cover

    Tools you'll be using for this: flat head screwdriver and stapler.

    How to Reupholster an Arm Chair

    Now before you get all excited about doing this, I want you to keep a few things in mind.

    • Learning how to reupholster is an extremely good thing to know how to do and it can be fun, but you want to remain focused on each task.
    • When your removing staples, you want to remove them with the flat head screwdriver being pushed outwards.
    • Each piece you remove from the chair needs to be kept to use as patterns on your new fabric.
    • Get a small box for all the staples you'll be removing and the tack strips you'll be removing as well.


    • New fabric
    • New upholstery tack strips if original one's aren't in good shape. 

    The essential tools needed for removing old fabric: a flat head screwdriver, hand or air stapler, heavy work gloves that fit really good.

    How spectacular does your newly upholstered chair look?

    Homemade Chalk Paint

    Sponsored by https://makinglemonadeblog.com/best-homemade-furniture-chalk-paint-recipe/


    • 1 part Plaster of Paris
    • 3 parts Latex Paint
    • Water

    First, remove lumps from the Plaster of Paris. You can use a sifter or break them up with a chopstick or utensil. Add one part of Plaster of Paris to a container (I like to use a clear container to make measuring/mixing easier).

    Add water to the Plaster of Paris and stir until smooth. I usually add a little at a time until I find a nice, smooth consistency. Stir it realllllly well, a wisk or even a mixer can be used if you like. I usually use a paint stirrer and mix A LOT.

    Now, add 3 parts paint to your 1 part of Plaster of Paris. Stir until completely mixed together. If the mixture feels too thick add water, or if it’s too thin add more Plaster of Paris.

    Now go ahead and paint! No prep work is needed, aside from cleaning the surface first.

    Annie Sloan's Paint Colors

    Color Theory

    Understanding "color theory" is very important when mixing your own colors. As a matter of fact, it's the "back bone" behind mixing colors.

    Primary Colors - Red, Yellow and Blue

    Secondary Colors - Colors When Mixed

    I love these color charts because they explain so much about color theory.

    Painting with Chalk Paint

    If you are a newbie at color mixing, using this color chart will help you.. Mixing colors will allow you to be inventive and create your own paint colors. Simply add them to plastic lids and mix them around until you like the color you see.

    Create Chippy Finishes with a Stirring Stick and Toilet Cleaner

    Yep, you read that right. If you want a very old layered and distressed finish on a piece of furniture you can do it with toilet cleaning bleach, the thick kind that coats the toilet bowl. Once the coat of Chalk Paint® by Annie Sloan is dry, squirt some toilet cleaning bleach in an area you want to look chippy. Let it sit on the painted surface for a short time. Then using the end of a wood paint stirring stick, chip away at the paint.

    How to Paint Upholstery

    When using Chalk Paint all you need is a spray bottle of water, a paint brush and chalk paint.

    You simply spray the fabric with water first to dampen. It does not have to be soaking wet. Then apply one light coat of the paint using a brush, let dry and add another coat if needed.

    You can leave the paint just as is or it can be sealed with one light coat of clear wax, then buffed.

    This chair is finished being painted.

    The Right Brush can Make a Difference

    Annie told us that when she applies the wax, she does it section by section. Adding wax to one area with the brush, buffs with a soft cloth and then adds wax to the next section, buffs and continues until the surface is covered.

    Making Homemade Wax

    Sponsored by https://countrydesignstyle.com/homemade-wax/


    • Beeswax
    • Mineral Oil
    • Mason Jars

    Soft Clear Wax

    Step 1. Measure 1/4 cup of beeswax in an oven-safe bowl or on top of the double boiler. Add water to the saucepan or bottom of the double boiler. Turn on heat to low-medium heat let the water come to a boil. Then place the bowl or on top of the double boiler to melt the wax. This will be quick. In the past, I used beeswax in small squares. I like the beads better.

    Step 2. When the wax melts, quickly remove from heat and add 1/2 cup of the mineral oil. Stir with a whisk.

    Step 3. Pour carefully into a mason jar. Mineral oil is not flammable. To be extra safe, simply add the oil to the hot melted wax away from flames. Wax and oil need to be warm to mix well. The oil does start cooling the wax but just keep stirring until mixed well. Let sit open until cool. When completely cool, stir. Then seal.

    Hard Clear Wax

    Step 1. Measure 1/2 cup beeswax into an oven-safe bowl or on top of the double boiler. Add water to the saucepan or bottom of the double boiler. Turn on heat to low-medium heat let the water come to a boil. Add the oven-safe bowl or on top of the double boiler and melt the wax over low-medium heat. Remove from heat.

    Step 2. Quickly add 1/3 cup mineral oil.

    Step 3. Pour carefully into a mason jar. Quickly start stirring. Stir, stir, stir. Let sit open until cool. The extra wax and less oil make a harder wax.

    Dark Wax

    Step 1. Make the soft clear wax. After added the wax into the mason jar, add 1 1/2 to 2 tablespoons of raw umber tint colorant.

    Step 2. Using a stir stick or PopCycle stick, stir, stir and stir again. Stir until the wax starts forming. If you walk away…

    Learn How to Antique a Mirror

    I absolutely love antique mirrors with their aged patina on the mirror itself. I actually have a few myself. Being so intrigued on how to duplicate this look, I did a little poking around.

    Sponsored by http://blog.jennasuedesign.com/2018/05/how-to-antique-a-mirror-tutorial/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Feed:+JennaSueDesignBlog+(Jenna+Sue+Design+Blog+)


    1. Bleach
    2. Spray bottle
    3. Paper towels
    4. CitriStrip Paint stripper (an orange gel that is safe for indoor use)
    5. Black or dark gray paint (spray paint is best)
    6. Optional gold/bronze paint
    7. Putty knife
    8. Paint brush
    9. Sponge

    Step 1. On the back of the mirror you’ll see a painted layer, which is usually gray in color. Underneath that is the reflective surface, and finally your glass.You’ll need to remove the back layer of paint to get to the reflective surface, and gel stripper is the way to go:

    Brush it on as thick and evenly as possible—you want the paint to come up nice and smoothly. Leave this on for about an hour. All mirrors will be different.

    Step 2. You want to scrape the stripper off completely without breaking through the thin reflective surface below. It’s a very delicate balance.

    Step 3. Fine steel wool can help remove some of the stubborn paint, but again be careful not to rub too hard. Here you can see the back of the first mirror with some of the gray paint still there.

    Step 4. I mixed 1/4 parts bleach with 3/4 parts water in a spray bottle, and began misting the back of the mirror.

    Focus more on the edges where mirrors naturally age. Use a finer mist for an even appearance, and throw in some larger droplets for random spots of heavier aging.

    This is the fun part, where you get to watch it magically transform before your eyes! Within minutes the spots will begin to darken (this is still the back of the mirror).

    Step 5. Use a sponge to blot some of the areas for a more natural look. You can experiment here to find the technique you like.

    The longer you leave the bleach water on, the more it will eat away at the reflective coating and the darker your age spots will be. Do a little bit at a time, flipping the mirror over frequently to monitor your progress. Keep in mind that you can always add more, but you can never bring the reflective part back!

    IMPORTANT - Make sure to pat down the back before flipping it over so the bleach doesn’t drip and create run lines

    Once you are happy with the level of distressing, it’s time to turn it back over for paint.

    Step 6. You can use gray or black paint. I love the way gold tones look. I covered the back in Maison Blanche’s Organza in Old Penny, which is a shimmery wax coat that gives it a realistic rusty look.

    You can apply lighter coverage in some areas and come back with a second coat of black or another color for added dimension and depth. Or even just leave it as is and let some of the clear glass show through—it all depends on the look you’re going for!

    Learning How to Paint a Cabinet - Very Simply


    • Paint in color of your choice in flat finish
    • Paint brush with chisel tip

    Remove the doors if you can. Sometimes it's difficult on an older piece.

    Step 1. Open your can of paint, dip your brush in so the paint covers a quarter of the way up the bristles.

    Step 2. Starting on the top of your piece, place the paint brush down on one corner and drag back and forth once.

    Repeat this same step right next to where you just painted.

    Step 3. Continue working in small areas like this till you have the entire top of your piece painted.

    Step 4. If you couldn't remove the doors, open them up. We'll begin painting the inside of the cabinet by painting the inside tops first.

    Step 5. Reach inside the door and paint the top simply going back and forth once like we did with the top.

    Step 6. Now paint the inside back of the cabinet.

    Step 7. Finally, paint the inside sides of the cabinet.

    Repeat Steps 5 - 7 for the other side of your cabinet.

    Step 8. Now we'll paint the inside of the doors. With each door opened, paint the inside of each door. Going back and forth across the top and bottom of each door and up and down on each of the two sides of each door.

    Step 9. Now let's paint the sides of the cabinet. Working in the same way we've been working, simply start at the top and paint a small section going back and forth once.

    Continue doing this till one side of your cabinet is painted. Then repeat for the other side.

    Step 10. Finally, paint the back of your cabinet.

    The reason why we paint in a back and forth motion only once is because if you were to continue going back and forth, you'd be removing paint.

    Wait for the inside of your piece to continue completely drying till we paint the outside of the doors and finish painting the front of the cabinet.

    Step 11. Once the inside of your cabinet is completely dry, you'll paint the underside lip of the top around the cabinet. If you get a little paint on the top, just brush it out.

    Step 12. Now paint the entire outside frame of the front. Painting back and forth on the top and bottom and painting up and down on the sides of the cabinet. Also paint the pieces on the inside of the doors.

    Step 13. Now finally, paint the outside of the doors.

    If you have glass in the doors, simply remove the paint with a razor blade once the paint is completely dry.

    Learn How to Apply Transfers to Furniture -

    Option 2


    • Wax Paper
    • Scotch Tape
    • Computer & Printer

    Tip: Wet your surface that helps image become darker

    Step 1. Determine where your image is going to be. Measure the size of the image and place pencil marks on your piece to help you in placing it.

    At times you'll want a large image to completely cover your piece of furniture. Well you can do this by clicking here.

    Step 2. Cut the wax paper to the size of printer paper, or your enlarged image.

    Step 3. Take a piece of your regular printer paper and tape the wax paper to it with tiny bits of tape.

    Step 4. You will need to reverse the image. Most computers have the program Paint. If you aren’t sure just do a search for it in your start bar. Open the picture you want to flip, then go to Image in the top bar. There is a drop-down option for Flip/Rotate. That should reverse the image for you.

    Step 5. Put the wax paper in the printer and make sure it’s under the rollers, but not too far in. If you put it on top of printer paper, you can use the paper as a guide on how far the wax paper needs to be in the printer.

    Step 6. Stand close to the printer and help guide the wax paper out. OH, and make sure there are no wrinkles!! It can cause the wax paper to get jammed.

    Step 7. You will have to work quickly because once you set the wax paper down you CAN NOT move it.

    Step 8. Line up the paper where your pencil marks are, then gently lay the image on the surface. Holding the wax paper firmly down, use a credit card to gently scrape the surface.

    Step 9. Then carefully remove the paper. It will still have ink, so be careful not to drag it.

    Did you see the other options for Transferring Images onto furniture to the right?

    How to Crackle Furniture

    This is a really fun and simple technique. This is also something that you need to work fairly quickly with and you'll see why.

    Step 1. First things first, using white glue - pour a good amount into a bowl.

    Step 2. Using a chip brush, begin painting the glue in a thick layer over your piece of furniture. Because glue is water-based - it tends to dry quickly. We need the glue to be tacky before we can move on to the next step.

    Step 3. Continue painting glue over your entire piece of furniture and allow to become tacky.

    Step 4. When it becomes tacky, you can apply your top coat. This could be a different color paint, or a wash of stain to age it.

    Step 5. If it's paint, brush on your color - then wipe off. If it's stain - wipe on then wipe off.

    You'll immediately see the crackling happening under your top coat.

    How to Create Rust


    • Hydrogen Peroxide
    • Salt

    In a disposable container with a lid, place your pieces of metal inside and pour hydrogen peroxide just to cover them. Then pour a good amount of salt into the container, gently stirring.

    Allow to sit for several hours. See what you've just created by gently lifting the cover off.

    Seal with a matte spray sealer.

    If your working with a large piece, do the same thing using a spray bottle. Spray your piece with the hydrogen peroxide first, then rub salt all over it. Cover with a bag, or seran wrap and allow to sit for a couple hours.


    Mix 2 parts bleach to 1 part vinegar in your plastic mixing container. Mix enough to cover whatever you are working on. Wait at least 30 minustes, then carefully remove the items from the solution and let dry. Discard used solution. When items are dry, brush off as much or as little rust as you like to achieve the desired effect. Seal with a matte spray sealer.

    Creating a Verdigris Finish

    Follow the steps above for creating the rust finish first.

    Then using a seafoam green acrylic paint poured into a lid or something else for your paint, paint over your entire surface.

    After the paint is dry, gently start sanding over the top of it - removing some of the paint.

    Here's a couple photos of a natural verdigris finish.

    A bright bluish-green encrustation or patina formed on copper or brass by atmospheric oxidation, consisting of basic copper carbonate.

    Making Mercury Glass

    1. Mix a some vinegar and water in a spray bottle, probably about 3 parts vinegar, 1 part water.{I used an empty Windex bottle, worked perfectly.}

    2. First spray the vinegar mixture into your glass vase.

    3. Immediately {before the vinegar droplets spread or dry} spray your gold paint over those droplets covering the entire inside of your vase. It will look like this…

    4. Let the paint dry to touch, but don’t let it sit so long that the droplets have been absorbed and the paint is hardened in every spot.

    5. Spray a paper towel to dampen it with your vinegar mixture

    6. Wipe around the inside of your vase with your damp paper towel. The paint will chip off in the spots where the vinegar drops were. You may need to use a little force, depending on how much of a chipped affect you’re going for.

    Learning How to Decoupage

    Découpage is the art of decorating an object by gluing colored paper cutouts onto it in combination with special paint effects, gold leaf and other decorative elements.


    • Mod Podge
    • Sponge Brush
    • Decorative Image
    • Item

    If your working on metal - use the Matte Mod Podge. If your working on something shiny like ceramics, then use the regular Mod Podge.

    Step 1. Make sure the item you'll be attaching your decorative image(s) to is washed.

    Step 2. Using your sponge brush, brush on Mod Podge to the back of your image.

    Step 3. Take your image and apply it to the item your working on. Using your fingers, gently smooth over the paper a few times to ensure it's adhered and to remove any air bubbles. Allow to dry.

    Step 4. Once your image is dry. Go over it with Mod Podge to seal it.

    Learn How to Apply Transfers to Furniture - Option 1

    I've written an article on this previously, but wanted to also add this here.


    • Mod Podge
    • Elmer's Glue
    • Brush or Large Sponge Brush
    • White Cardstock
    • Computer & Printer

    Step 1. Brush the Elmer's Glue onto one side of a piece of your cardstock in a nice even coat and allow to dry.

    Step 2. Open your image on your computer. You will need to reverse the image. Most computers have the program Paint. If you aren’t sure just do a search for it in your start bar. Open the picture you want to flip, then go to Image in the top bar. There is a drop-down option for Flip/Rotate. That should reverse the image for you.

    At times you'll want a large image to completely cover your piece of furniture. Well you can do this by clicking here.

    Step 3. Put the cardstock in the printer and make sure it’s under the rollers, but not too far in. If you put it on top of the printer, you can use the paper as a guide on how far the wax paper needs to be in the printer. Print your image.

    Step 4 Stand close to the printer and help guide the cardstock out.

    Step 5. Cut the image out.

    Step 6. Brush a thin smooth layer of Mod Podge over the image.

    Step 7. Apply your image face down onto your surface, press and smooth to make sure the image has good contact with the wood. Using a brayer is really helpful in smoothing out the paper and eliminating any air bubbles. Let dry overnight.

    Step 8. Soak it. You can dunk it in water, run it under faucet, or squirt water on it with a spray bottle. Let the cardstock get really wet and soft. Gently peel off the cardstock. You can gently rub the image with your finger to loosen any remaining paper.

    Work with each section at a time, or each drawer at a time. The Mod Podge will start to dry fairly quickly, so you want to make sure that you have your project planned as to where you want to place each image.

    There's a 2nd Option to Transffering Images on furniture to the left.

    Glazing Furniture

    Sponsored by http://gypsymagpie.com/2017/02/tips-tricks-applying-glaze-furniture.html

    For the purpose of these instructions - glaze is the same as stain.

    I've done a lot of "glazing" or antiquing and have always used stain.

    The purpose behind "glazing" is to change the paint finish to make it look aged. If you practice on a scrap piece of wood, you'll see what I'm referring to.

    There are several ways you can apply glaze. When you are practicing, try applying with a paintbrush, sponge brush, and a rag so you can figure out what you find most comfortable. Using a paintbrush helps getting the product into all the cracks, nooks, and crannies. A paintbrush also gives movement and brush strokes that create texture for the eye.

    Work in small sections! Brush or wipe on, then immediately wipe off. Make sure that your final swipes go with the grain of the wood. You don’t want to get swirly circles in your glaze. Don’t swim your piece in glaze, it rarely looks professional or pretty… especially if you are using a dark colored glaze.

    When you begin, use a light hand and wipe, wipe, wipe! You can always go back over and add more glaze later if it’s not dark enough for you. Know that the damp rag with your glaze will take off a lot more of the glaze than the dry rag will. If it wipes off more than you were hoping, don’t freak out! Just go back and reapply after it dries a bit. You have complete control of where the color goes and how much you want. That’s the cool thing about using glaze!

    You can thin glaze for a lighter look. If the glaze is oil based, thin with mineral spirits. If it is water based, thin with a bit of water. To do this, pour some glaze into a container and add 10-20% thinner (the mineral spirits or the water as mentioned above). Stir well with a paint stick and you are good to go.

    Applying glaze will deepen your paint color, so be prepared for that. Depending on the color of glaze you use, your paint color will feel richer. Using white glaze or a pearl glaze will lighten and soften your underlying paint color. The color of glaze you go with can completely change the feeling. A dark glaze will add drama and depth. A light glaze will add a light, airy feeling.

    Glaze works best on pieces with detail. You can use it on plain furniture, but it doesn’t give the same effect as it does on a piece with curves, carving, and movement.

    Glaze isn’t a durable finish, so you’ll need to follow up with a top coat to seal it. Allow the glaze to dry then seal your piece.

  • Basics of what we'll be doing.

    Step 1. Pry and yank the staples with a screwdriver and pliers.. Remove the upholstery and cushion material.

    If you’re re-covering more than one chair, number each chair and seat; that way, the screw holes will line up properly when you reinstall the seats.

    Step 2. Cut the batting so it overhangs all sides of the seat by about 4 in. Then drive a single staple on each side to hold the foam in place.

    step 3. Lay your fabric down face side down. Place your seat over it. Measure out from the seat 4" all the way around and mark it. You might want to connect your marks with a ruler.

    Step 4. Now cut out your fabric.

    Step 5. Pull one side of your fabric up and over the seat and drive a single staple in. Do this on the other three sides, pulling your fabric a little bit to tighten it. (Do Not pull your fabric a lot because this will stretch it.)

    Step 6. After you've tacked your fabric down, you can go ahead and place around 12 staples per side.

    Step 7. Cut off the excess batting and upholstery so you don’t end up with ugly lumps at corners.

    This is how you'd create a butterfly corner. Simply pulling one corner of the fabric out, then folding it over and stapling it. Then fold the two sides in and staple. If you have excess fabric like shown in the second to last photo, then just trim it off.

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